The Heritage collection of H. Moser & Cie caters to collectors who enjoy design cues from the past coupled with contemporary mechanics and Moser’s signature twist. A fusion of historical Moser pocket watches and early 20th-century models on display in Moser’s museum in Schaffhausen, the 42mm stainless steel Heritage Dual Time joins the collection with a practical dual time function and a gorgeous Burgundy fumé dial.
The idea behind Moser’s Heritage collection is to create watches with a distinctive 1920s flair. Wearing a wristwatch at the turn of the century was still the exception, and most watches on men’s wrists were converted pocket watches. Pilots and soldiers would solder lugs onto the large round case of their pocket watch to thread a leather strap and secure it to their wrists. While the round cases, wire lugs, large onion crown and stylised Arabic numerals wing back to the aesthetics of early converted pilot’s watches, the sleek fumé dials and applied 3D Globolight Arabic numerals bring Moser’s impeccable mix of elegance and touch of unorthodoxy to the table.
In 2018, Moser surprised us all with its unprecedented vintage pilot’s watch for Bucherer. Accustomed as we were to the brand’s more contemporary collections, the Moser x Bucherer was a surprise on two fronts. In the first place, it was a 1920s pilot-inspired design, and in the second, it was the most affordable Moser of its day (CHF 11,900). A year later, Moser introduced a more complicated Heritage model with Tourbillon into its regular collection, followed by a Heritage Centre Seconds, both with Funky Blue fumé dials. Marking a clear departure from the pilot-style dials of the earlier editions, the Heritage Perpetual Calendar of 2021 with its enamel dial and elegant Roman hour markers was a far more classical interpretation in white gold with a beautiful engraved decoration on the caseband.
Heritage Dual Time
Measuring 42mm across with a height of 11.60mm, the beautifully rounded and polished case displays the engraved fluting on the casebands of former Heritage models and the hallmark lugs that emulate the soldered wire lugs used to adapt pocket watches to the wrist. Once again, this Heritage model sticks to the successful pilot’s watch aesthetics with its large onion crown and exceptional legibility thanks to the Arabic hour markers and the traditional railroad minutes track picked out in white. Set against a stunning Burgundy sunburst fumé dial, the white markings and numerals stand out a mile.
In characteristic Moser fashion, the brand manages to blend attractive design features from the past with the latest technology in luminescence. Unlike the large sword-shaped hour and minute hands treated with luminescent paint, the applied Arabic numerals result from a more complex process. The 3D numerals are made of a solid and innovative ceramic-based material known as Globolight. This material, which can be cut into any shape, contains Super-LumiNova and emits a particularly intense and long-lasting green glow in the dark.
The grey skeletonised hand corresponding to the dual time zone is similar in length to the hour hand and can be hidden beneath the main hour hand when not in use. The 12-hour dual time hand is outlined with dark Super-LumiNova but does not distinguish between day or night. Simple and probably more than enough for most travellers, the concept behind the Heritage Dual Time was to respect the minimalism for which Moser is renowned. In keeping with its functionality as a GMT model, a date window is a practical necessity and is connected to the local time. Unlike other Heritage models, the brand logo is depicted in transparent lacquer like a secret signature.
HMC 809 Automatic
A sapphire caseback reveals Moser’s new in-house HMC 809 self-winding calibre with a dual time module place on top of its automatic manufacture movement (HMC 200). This 32mm movement, with a central openworked rotor, beats at 21,600 vibrations per hour and boasts a 3-day (or 72-hour) power reserve. It displays the central hours, minutes, seconds, date and dual time. Entirely manufactured in-house, including its hairspring (made with Moser’s sister company Precision Engineering AG), the rotor transfers the energy to the barrel via a bidirectional pawl winding system, reducing the time required to wind the watch. The rotor is engraved with the brand’s name and decorated with sandblasted and brushed finishings, while the bridges reveal classic Moser double stripes.
The H. Moser & Cie. Heritage Dual Time Burgundy is presented on a casual hand-stitched grey kudu leather strap with a steel pin buckle. The retail price is CHF 19,900.
For more information, please consult H. Moser & Cie.
H. Moser & Cie. Heritage Dual Time Burgundy originally appeared via monochrome-watches.com