2021 A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk Honeygold Lumen 142.055

If A. Lange & Söhne watches are sometimes taking part in on classical design cues, there may be one sub-collection that actually has a much more trendy and technical vibe, and that’s the so-called Lumen range of limited editions. Born in 2010 with the Zeitwerk Luminous (not but named Lumen again then), the gathering has grown to develop into a number of the most sought-after and fascinating watches within the model’s portfolio. Uncommon and unique, these models with sapphire dials are correct treats for collectors. And so they’ll be joyful to know {that a} new one is launching at this time, and it comes again to the roots as based mostly on the architectural watch with jumping indications… However as you’ll see, this new Zeitwerk Honeygold Lumen comes with many new options, beginning with an unprecedented motion that packs loads of energy. And, it’s additionally the primary Lumen to not be made out of platinum…

The Lumen Collection

Behind the Luminous/Lumen assortment, there’s a quite enjoyable story. Anthony de Haas, Director of Product Improvement of the model, whereas sporting an early model of the platinum Zeitwerk discovered that studying the time at midnight was quite tough. So his workforce and he began to discover the way to give this modern-looking watch higher night-time legibility… And as soon as the discs got luminous numerals got here the concept to really present them (and a number of the motion’s technicality) by including a partially-tinted sapphire dial that, nevertheless, was quite particular because it let UV go via with a view to cost the luminescence of the numerals. And that is how the Luminous/Lumen sequence began.

2010 – Zeitwerk Luminous “Lumen”

Again then not named Lumen (it got here with the second watch), the primary watch of the sequence was the Zeitwerk Luminous, based mostly on the traditional version launched in 2009, winner of GPHG. This watch, with the ref. 140.035, was manufactured from platinum and had a dark-tinted sapphire dial, which let the discs with luminous indications seem beneath and partially revealed a number of the technical components of the motion. It was a 100 items restricted version. In any other case an identical to the traditional Zeitwerk, with leaping hours on one disc on the left, and leaping minutes on two discs on the proper. The movement is sort of an identical to the traditional Zeitwerk fashions, the hand-wound calibre L043.3 with 2.5Hz frequency and 36-hour energy reserve, with patented one-minute remontoire mechanism. 

2013 – Grand Lange 1 Lumen

Following the Zeitwerk, the model presents in 2013 a second Lumen watch based on the Grand Lange 1, with a view to present the traditional Lange outsized Date function in all glory, seen on via the aperture at 2 o’clock but in addition beneath the partially-tinted sapphire dial. This 41mm watch, reference 117.035, is a 200-piece restricted version and is manufactured from platinum. All indications are luminous (hours/minutes, all hour markers, small seconds, energy reserve and naturally the massive date). Inside is the hand-wound calibre L095.2, with 72h energy reserve and the identical mechanical base as a traditional, closed-dial Grand Lange 1.

2016 – Grand Lange 1 Moon Part Lumen

This model introduced in 2016 beneath the reference 139.035 was additionally restricted to 200 items, was additionally in platinum and likewise measured 41mm in diameter. It was an evolution of the idea launched with the 2013 version, but right here the star of the present was the luminous moon part indication built-in inside the hours/minutes off-centred dial. Identical to the earlier Grand Lange 1 Lumen, all indications, together with the Outsized Date, are coated with luminous materials, and a number of the indications are thus seen beneath the partially tinted sapphire dial (largely the date discs). The moon disc is adorned with a large number of small luminous stars. Contained in the case is the hand-wound calibre L095.4, but once more with a 72h energy reserve and the identical base because the traditional Grand Lange Moon Phase (non-lumen).

2018 – Datograph Lumen Up/Down

Following the three earlier watches, Lange launched in 2018 a brand new Lumen restricted version of 200 items, as soon as once more manufactured from platinum, however this time based mostly on its most well-known chronograph watch, the Datograph. The thought right here with this reference 405.034, as soon as once more taking part in with {a partially} tinted sapphire dial, was to emphasise the 2 main problems of this mannequin, by partially revealing the mechanics behind the outsized date, and likewise by making the chronograph operate extremely seen at midnight, because the sub-dials and the tachymeter ring had been coated in luminous materials. The sapphire dial additionally permits a view on the highest facet of the motion. Lastly, the Up/Down energy reserve operate can be highlighted in luminous materials. The platinum case nonetheless measures 41mm in diameter and the motion stays the identical because the up to date model of the Datograph, with a 60h energy reserve. Fingers and a number of the baton hour markers are luminous too.

The brand new Zeitwerk Honeygold Lumen

At first sight, you may think that this new Zeitwerk Lumen is mainly the identical because the 2010 mannequin, in a unique materials… You’d be proper to suppose so after only a fast have a look at the watch and its specs. It shares the identical emblematic show – impressed by the five-minute clock in Dresden’s Semper Opera – in addition to the identical T-shaped time bridge and the very same case dimensions as all of the traditional (perceive time-only) Zeitwerk, Luminous or not. However, in actuality, this new Zeitwerk Honeygold Lumen is a wholly new watch, with totally different proportions, a revised dial with totally different development and a brand new motion with much more energy than earlier than… And it’s additionally one with unprecedented materials for the Lumen sequence. So, all in all, there’s rather a lot to elucidate.

First, the case. Sure, the diameter continues to be 41.9mm and the peak continues to be 12.6mm, identical to the earlier editions of the time-only Zeitwerk watches. However, as a result of new motion and a revised show – extra on that later – the case has totally different proportions. First, the bezel is now barely thinner than earlier than, making the watch visually a bit much less cumbersome. And since A. Lange & Söhne is all about respecting some historical guidelines of proportions, the lugs have additionally been revised to be sleeker. We’re speaking minor changes right here, in fact, however some that might give the Zeitwerk Honeygold Lumen a bit extra magnificence than earlier than on the wrist.

One of many essential novelties with this version is the fabric used for the case. Earlier Luminous/Lumen editions have all the time been crafted in platinum, however this new mannequin is housed in a case manufactured from the model’s proprietary Honeygold, a particular 18k alloy with “varied admixtures and a particular thermal remedy” giving the gold extra hardness and a really refined color. Solely reserved to limited-edition watches at Lange – like the 175th-anniversary models – this uncommon and hard-to-machine alloy discover its approach for the primary time within the Lumen sequence, however not within the Zeitwerk assortment, as used beforehand in the 2017 Zeitwerk Decimal Strike. The case retains the identical ending as earlier than, with a cultured bezel and lugs, and straight-brushed flanks. It’s worn on a brown alligator strap to provide a closing heat contact, one thing that has been absent of the earlier Lumen watches, all with a black-on-grey and technical look… This Zeitwerk Honeygold Lumen, on this respect, feels quite stunning.

An vital new component of this new Lumen watch is the presence of a pusher on the facet of the case, which was absent from earlier time-only Zeitwerk. That is the place the affect of the Zeitwerk Date reveals probably the most, as certainly the motion of this new model relies on the date mannequin offered in 2019. It permits the hour indication to be switched individually, which in flip makes it easier to set the time. The minutes are, in fact, nonetheless adjusted by the crown. Like within the Zeitwerk Date, the switching impulse is generated when the pusher is launched. “The benefit is that switching is all the time uniformly executed, no matter how gently or vigorously the pusher is actuated,” explains A. Lange & Söhne. And from the phrases of Anthony de Haas, this method can be extra compact than a traditional pusher (suppose chronograph-like pusher) and this made it doable to retain the identical dimensions as earlier than.

Now, the dial… Being a part of the sequence of Luminous watches, this Zeitwerk Honeygold Lumen is, in fact, fitted with a partially-tinted sapphire dial. New for this watch, it’s not glued anymore however set in place between two O-ring gaskets, which make meeting simpler and likewise present extra resistance in case of shocks. The sapphire dial comes with a light-permeable coating that enables the luminous numerals that aren’t uncovered within the aperture (these usually hidden beneath the dial) to soak up sufficient UV gentle glow at midnight. So not solely the numerals uncovered within the apertures are luminous, however the hidden numerals are barely seen beneath the sapphire dial too…

The show continues to be composed of a time bridge with two large openings revealing a single disc for the hours and a mixture of two discs for the minutes. Redesigned for the event, the bridge homes a bigger sub-seconds dial and it’s now executed in black rhodiumed German silver (as a substitute of being black coated), giving it a barely lighter and hotter tone. The facility reserve indicator continues to be positioned at 12 o’clock and each palms on the dial are accomplished in 18k Honeygold.

Again to mechanics, the Zeitwerk Honeygold Lumen retains the beautiful show that has made the sequence distinctive, that means a fancy mixture of three instantaneously leaping discs, giving the time in a digital format, and all numerals are an identical in measurement. They change exactly and skim from left to proper. Behind this mechanism is a fancy constant-force system. Certainly, such giant discs require a formidable quantity of power to be launched. As well as, this one-minute remontoire (which thus drives the units-minutes disc) assures that the steadiness is all the time pushed with fixed energy, enhancing the precision of this watch. Briefly, this one-minute spring that masses and unloads to actuate the leap of the discs additionally advantages the precision of the watch…

However that’s not new… What’s new is the calibre L043.9, a motion that’s based mostly on the structure of the calibre discovered within the Zeitwerk Date. But it surely’s greater than only a small transformation, for the reason that date complication wasn’t a module to be eliminated, that means that this Zeitwerk Honeygold Lumen required to re-think your entire higher a part of the engine. However, this additionally implies that this new engine advantages from an structure with two barrels stacked one on prime of one other. Mixed with a lighter steadiness wheel and, consequently a lighter remontoire, this leads to an influence reserve that has been doubled, transferring from 36 hours up to now to now 72 hours. It’s additionally quite sure that this upgraded motion will discover its approach into the case of the common Zeitwerk in the end.

This longer energy reserve, mixed with the brand new hour-correction pusher, makes this calibre L043.9 a reasonably spectacular enchancment over the earlier era. Composed of 462 parts, the motion runs at 18,000 vibrations/hour (2.5Hz). Seen via the sapphire caseback, the design and the ornament are as soon as once more extraordinarily interesting, with the fragile bridge on prime of the remontoire being the star of the present. The remaining is equally spectacular, with hand-engraved steadiness and escape-wheel cocks, solarised winding wheels and filigreed, straight-grained constant-force escapement bridge that accommodates two recessed, screwed gold chatons. All components are adorned, seen or not.

Availability & Value

The A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk Honeygold Lumen (ref. 142.055) is a restricted version of 200 items, obtainable completely from ALS boutiques. It will likely be priced at EUR 114,000.

For extra particulars, please go to www.alange-soehne.com.